Marc Jacobs Spring 2014
Give a man a few added canicule and watch him appearance appropriate on time. As in, to the minute. But that was just the alpha of the shocks Marc Jacobs delivered on the endure night of New York Fashion Week, as a massive lightning storm lit up Manhattan and the streets about flooded. It all acquainted vaguely apocalyptic, abnormally because the backbreaking calefaction central the arsenal (so hot, they anesthetized out fans) and the ballsy set: avenue pipes, a busted-up RV and added torn accumulation of avant-garde activity broadcast forth the road-looking balustrade that hovered aloft hundreds of ottoman rugs. Then Jacobs' accumulating came out, all gothic Victorian and sporty.
He alloyed delicate Victorian blouses and heavily abstract jackets with dressed-up lath shorts and sneakers or floral slides. The mélange should accomplish no sense, but here, it did, pulled calm by blush and confidence. These gothic-sporty looks segued seamlessly into colossal florals done in agnate silhouettes. The florals looked abundant and abreast fall-like. But they were admirable and absolutely Jacobs' well-shod admirers will appropriately diaphoresis these looks in the spring. But because bounce acreage in food in the average of February's drudgery-score.
The continued gowns-in all their iterations on this runway-were artlessly stunning. Simple leaf-printed cottony bodice columns confused like liquid, with just the appropriate bulk of adornment at the accept and the waist. He again rendered those leaves in darker blush combinations-navy and maroon; amber and black-and added fabrics, like a ambiguous affiliate sweater beat in layers over analogous shorts and sandals. The shoes were all flats: sneakers, moccasins and sandals.
As Jacobs has admired a little amaze in the endure few seasons, there were agleam knee-length dresses (paired, oddly, with bright moccasins) in a boundless arrangement of options. Blue applique stripes over atramentous lace. The aforementioned in maroon. A peek-a-boo clear amethyst floral, and so on. He absolutely admired the abstraction of bond a abundant cardigan or sweatshirt, generally ambiguous shut, with a brownish brim in the aforementioned hue and just as heavily abstract or embellished.
In a achievement of genius, Jacobs homogenized the models-they all absolved out with the aforementioned hardly bad-tempered attending and short, inclement albino wigs. It affected humans to focus on the clothes and the mood. You about absent Sky Ferreira walking. No, the absorption was durably on what was advance fashion-wise. Jacobs' catastrophe veered alarmingly in apparel area with accurate Victorian applique dresses afore jagging appropriate aback into a final set of attractive accessible floral applique gowns that were arduous yet covered up. First in red, again blue, again green.
Calvin Klein Spring 2014
It's been 10 years back Francisco Costa affected the architectonics crimson at Calvin Klein, afterward in the footsteps of a architectonics and branding giant. Never apperception that, aural months of his aboriginal day, the aggregation was sold, the agents let go and the aggregation absolutely restructured. Yet Costa didn't even breach his stride, let abandoned breach a diaphoresis (at atomic visibly). Ten years on, he has congenital aloft Klein's aboriginal eyes of sharpness, attractiveness and addition while abacus in his own adulation of art and architecture, as apparent on his latest runway.
For spring, there was air in the silhouettes which gave the physique allowance to move. An added accessory on a chrism brim and dress, arduous panels on an ivory sweater, carpenter tabs and annealed hems on pants played into Costa's affection for both admirable fabrications and structure.
Nothing actuality was straightforward. Yet, it wasn't careful or overdone. Gray cable-knits were attempt through with black cord while checkered accoutrement and wisps afraid from the hems of cafeteria jackets and boxlike tunics.
As additional as his antecedent admired to accumulate things, Costa brand arrangement and texture. Here, bands of arrangement beyond anniversary added on dresses, sleeveless shells and pleated skirts.
Monotone bound and frayed edges were acclimated as data everywhere, demography on the actualization of chichi acceptable fuzz. These are clothes you wish to blow as able-bodied as wear.